Columbia 2016

Welcome to Bogota

 

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Bogota Colombia Jan 1-5 2016

 “Mas gente”, said our taxi driver. He was right, there were lots of people. Three other travellers from our hostel had followed us in a second taxi to the funicular that took people to the top of Monserrate hill. We had arrived in Bogota the previous Friday and were taking the advice of our Lonely Planet guide book, which said to join other locals on a Sunday trip to the top of Monserrate, elevation 3152m, which had a chapel and a great view of the city.

 I don’t think they meant for us to go on the first Sunday in the New Year. We had a hint of what to expect as we passed pedestrians thronging the streets leading to the funicular station. The crowds were even worse at the station. It looked like at least a one hour wait to get to the top. Our taxi driver suggested we could go to the top of Guadalupe hill instead, that didn’t have a funicular, for additional money. Guadalupe is even higher than Monserrate but doesn’t have a funicular. We had a discussion with the other car load of tourists from our hostel. They all said they were going to take their chances on Monserrate. We opted to go to Guadalupe.

 We followed another stream of cars around one switchback after another, following the ever upward to Guadalupe summit on the adjacent hill. We passed families carrying lunch buckets walking up the road. It looked exhausting. The traffic got heavier the farther up the road we climbed. There was no end in sight. Our driver kept assuring us we could make it. We believed him. We got to a turn off the main road with a phalanx of police turning back all the cars. Our driver spoke to one of the police after the other, all first refusing to let us through and then reluctantly allowing us to go ahead. The last police officer needed more persuasion. Our driver looked at us and pulled out the old elderly foreign tourist argument. It worked. We crept ahead. It was another km to go to reach the church of the Virgin of Guadalupe and our promised view. Our driver stopped to offer a police officer hiking up a ride. That made our car even more official. We finally had to stop and park by the side of the road and join all the faithful walking up the last 500m, accompanied by our driver. We knew we were close when we passed food and water stands and a big outdoor food court. Ray stopped to take a photo of Monserrate, just across a valley. The small viewing platform at the top was filled with people. We estimated that about half the population of Bogota was either at Monserrate or Guadalupe that morning. We did get a good spot to see how really big Bogota is and take lots of photos.

 It was time for the noon mass in the small church. We left that treat to the locals and started back down to the car. We got to the turn in the road where police were still turning away cars. There was a long line of several hundred people along the side of the road all hoping to get on the next bus back to town. It would be a long wait. We were glad our driver had stayed to drive us back to the hostel. It took us an hour to get to the shrine of Guadalupe but less than half that time to get down again, but it was an experience and worthwhile to see the view.  Later we discovered than none of the fellow tourists in the other taxi made it to the top of Monserrate. It was just too long a wait.

Bogota, at 2625m (8600 ft), is the capital of Colombia and has 7.4 million people spread over a wide area hemmed in by mountains. It is a big city and at such a high altitude, is a lot colder than the tropical Yucatan we had just left. We arrived in mid-day to sunny, warm 20C weather, but after 4:30 PM, when the sun started to go down the temperature dropped to a low of 8C overnight. We had come prepared with long pants, a fleece and a rain jacket to provide at least three layers. The other acclimatization we coped with was the difficulty of climbing the steep street to our hostel in La Candelaria, the old Colonial section of town. All of sudden we were walking much slower than usual and even stopping to catch our breath. I think we were getting used to the altitude and climate before we left a few days later.

There were benefits to staying in the Candelaria. All the best sites were a short walk away and there was no shortage of restaurants. We visited the Plaza de Bolivar, a huge square in front of the Cathedral and surrounded with important government building. All the tourists, both local and foreign end up at this square, buying corn to feed the pigeons and watching children ride the llamas waiting for customers.

 
ride a llama in Plaza de Bolivar

the young police trainee was our guide in the museum 

We were approached by a young policeman, who asked us where we from and asked if we would like to tour the National Police Museum. It didn’t sound like our first choice of activites so we refused and continued walking the streets admiring the beautiful, well restored buildings. I was reading the Lonely Planet as we walked and was surprised to read that the Police Museum was more than I had thought. We sought out the young man who had approached us and told him we had changed our mind. He took us to the Museum, housed in the original headquarters of the National Police, where we waited for another guide to show us around the museum. Our guide, Jonathan, explained that all 18 year old boys in Colombia are required to spend one year in the National Police force. Those who are interested, train to be a guide in the museum. Jonathan considered being a guide a lot safer and more interesting than standing guard at a building or street corner. The job also gave him the opportunity to practise his English skills. The tour was interesting. It had examples of old transport vehicles, including a paddy wagon that picked up people found guilty of minor infractions and kept them in the wagon, in full view of the population for one day. Nowadays they would be fined, but public humiliation was the punishment then. There were also displays highlighting the different roles played by the police, including social service. The biggest draw for most visitors was the role played by the police in apprehending and controlling the drug trade, whose most infamous member was Pablo Escobar. How many of you have watched the TV miniseries, now on Netflix, Narcos. We watched it before we left home and are glad it is no longer as violent as it once was.

The afternoon after we visited Guadalupe hill, we joined the immensely popular Graffiti walking tour. About 30 tourists followed the very knowledgeable Jay, who was born in Colombia and Raised in New York and Florida. We spent 2 ½ hours walking the streets of Candalaria and into some of the business area admiring the art work covering almost every wall space, both on public and private spaces. The tour was originated by Crisp, the tag name of one of the artists, a few years ago. The graffiti artists and they are artists, like to think they have won the battle to keep on painting without being arrested. About a year or two ago the city invited artists to paint the walls of a new super highway leading to the airport. They had expected just a few artists to show up and were astounded when 400 showed up. I was certainly impressed by the works. Bogota now draws artists from all over the world and is counted one of the 10 best cities to view graffiti art.

 

Click the photo above to see a Graffiti Tour album. Close the window to return.

The Botero Museum, featuring works by Fernando Botero, Colombia’s most famous artist is on everyone’s list, ours included. Botero specializes in depicting decidedly chubby people, often in poses poking fun at famous works of art. There was also a smaller collection of works by the world’s top masters including Picasa, Juan Miro and others.


Botero's chubby family 
 
San Agustin Church towers

 Our favourite church was the small San Agustin Church, near Plaza de Bolivar. It is covered in over-the-top ornamentation on every surface and then enriched with gold leaf. It was sumptuousness gone wild, but beautifully done.

 We did a lot with our 3 ½ days in Bogota but left a lot more for future visits. We have one more day in Bogota before flying back to Mexico at the end of January, so perhaps we will be able to add a few more highlights to our list. 

   

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