Kigali and Kayonza, Rwanda

February 2011

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Land of a Thousand HIlls - Kigali, Rwanda

Kigali Rwanda

Sunday 6 February 2011

Rwanda is the land of a Thousand Hills and Kigale is the city built on the hills. This makes practising for our day tracking Gorillas through the mountains of Rwanda easy. Several times a day we walk from our small guest house, Auberge La Caverne, about 0.5 km uphill to the center of the city to visit Bourbon Coffee Shop, to get more money from an ATM, or have dinner in a restaurant. Sometimes we even make it without puffing. We are also perfecting our street crossing techniques. Like the other African towns we have visited, there are no convenient pedestrian crosswalks, although cars and buses seem to be more tolerant of people like us trying to get to the other side of the street. Our best bet remains waiting for a local to make the first move in a break in the traffic and walk beside them as a guard.

We flew from Arusha to Kigale via Rwandair last Wednesday Feb 4th and have been relaxing and exploring the area ever since. Kigale seems to be a favourite place for Westerners to serve as volunteers or get a job working for International Organizations. We have met several, including a young couple on the plane to Kigale who shared a taxi into town with us. From Switzerland and Norway, they both work for UN agencies.

If you ever decide to come to Rwanda to see the Gorillas and have made a reservation yourself with ORTPN, the Rwandan Tourist Office, from your home, we highly recommend you leave time to confirm the reservation when you arrive in Kigali. We wired the requested amount from our bank in Ottawa to the ORTPN office in late December. It took more than an hour to find the hard copy reference of the receipt of our wired funds. All records were in hardcopy in a ring binder by date of receipt of funds, not by name or date of booking. When the receipt was finally found we were told we owed more money for the permit because of bank charges levied by the Rwandan bank that completed the transaction! It would have been easier and cheaper to have one of the tour companies in Rwanda make the reservation, even paying the tour company service fee. Anyhow, we are set to see the gorillas on Feb 15th.

Everyone who visits Rwanda should visit the Kigali Memorial Center. It was a short Moto Taxi ride from our hotel. For 500 RFr (less than $1 each) we got to ride on the back of a licensed motorcycle to the Center. The drivers are all around the city, distinguished by their green vests proclaiming their status as Moto drivers. They even carry an extra helmet and are allowed one passenger per bike. It works well.

The Kigali was opened about 2005 in the midst of beautifully kept gardens. The displays of photos, film clips and good documentation in three languages, Kinyarwanda, French and English, tell the history of Rwanda leading up to the Genocide in 1994 and the after effects. It was extremely moving. We spent the morning appalled at the incredible loss of life and the delayed response by the rest of the world. Canada’s Lt. Gen Romeo Dallaire, head of the UN Peace Mission of the time, is highlighted as a voice in the wilderness, who wrote memos to the UN begging for assistance, but he was ignored. His book Shake Hands With The Devil was written about his experiences in 1994. Less we forget that Rwanda was the only recent genocide, another section of the memorial deal with genocidesover the past century in Cambodia, Armenians, Jews, Namibia and the former Yugoslavia. Outside are buried the remains of over 28,000 people found in mass graves in other parts of Rwanda. There were fresh flowers left on one of the concrete covered tombs.

We also paid a visit to the Hotel des Milles Collines, made famous by the film Hotel Rwanda. The European management of the hotel appointed Paul Rusesabagina, a manager of a smaller hotel in Kigali, to run the hotel when they were evacuated during the 1994 genocide. Paul risked the lives of himself and his family by harbouring fleeing Tutsis and moderate Hutu in the hotel. He and his family and some survivors were eventually evacuated in a UN convoy. He fled to Belgium where he still lives. The hotel has been entirely renovated and is a smart first class hotel with a big outdoor swimming pool in the center of Kigali.

One of Ray’s friends at the Carlingwood YMCA is Bill James. He came to Kigale several years ago and found himself returning to a small bar close to his hotel. He started talking to a woman working in the bar and was most impressed by her plans to open a bar for herself. Immaculé was taking accounting courses and had boned up on what would be required to start a business on her own. Bill decided she deserved a chance and helped her start a bar, which she called Billy’s Bar, in Kigali. She did so well that the owner of the building where the bar was located decided he would run the bar himself and didn’t renew her lease. Immaculé moved to Kayonza, 65 km east of Kigali, to be nearer her family and opened another bar there. When Bill heard we were going to Tanzania, he convinced us to include Rwanda in our trip and to visit Immaculé in Kayonza. We did.

Today we boarded a comfortable minibus to Kayonza. Immaculé was at the bus stop waiting for us. We walked to her small shop and were impressed with her business and her future plans to expand into a restaurant and guest house. She now has several full time employees and makes enough to send her 11 year old daughter to a private school. She starts courses next week to become computer literate and improve her business skills. Not many westerners visit Kayonza. We were a hit with the local children. We soon had an audience of more than eight, playing games and practising their rudimentary English. After having lunch with Immaculé, we said good bye and boarded another bus back to Kigale. Bill is rightly proud of his protégé.

 

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