Kabale and Lake Bunyoni

February 2011

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Uganda - Elections and Lake Bunyoni

Kabale Uganda

16-21 Feb 2011

Loud voices, music and cheering brought us out of Edirisa Hostel in Kabale to watch a big parade promoting the re-election of Yoweri Museveni, the incumbent President of Uganda. The Presidential elections were two days away and interest was high all over the country. People sporting yellow T-shirts with Museveni’s picture walked through town waving to the crowd of onlookers while pickups and big trucks full of supporters followed behind.

We had been warned that the Ugandan elections to be held on Friday, February 18 could involve large, potentially violent demonstrations pitting the incumbent Museveni against his closest rival Besigye Kifefe. On Election Day we saw crowds of people lining up to vote at the various stations. Most businesses were closed for the day and schools that were to be used as voting stations had been closed the day before as well to allow the officials to get ready for Friday’s vote. There were vehicles transporting International Official Election Observers in town and extra police and military personnel. Luckily the mood was peaceful everywhere.

We had arrived from Rwanda, having taken a bus to the border and two taxis to get to Kabale. Our Lonely Planet warned that the road on the Ugandan side was in terrible repair. It wasn’t perfect since half of it was under reconstruction but it was no worse than many of the other roads we have travelled in East Africa. The ride was through scenic mountains and a large forested National Park. We passed one section of Lake Bunyoni that we would be visiting in a few days and made our way into Kabale, a typical town with dusty streets set in a valley between cultivated hills.

We were lucky to get the lone double room with an attached toilet in the House of Edirisa, a combination museum, hangout and hostel. Jon Lee, who we had met in Giseny had arrived that morning. He has stayed at Edirisa several times over the past four years so he was able to recommend the best places to eat and visit.

The next morning Jon took us on a walking tour to the former colonial enclave on the top of a hill behind the main street. He told us if we ever wanted to pamper ourselves in Kabale the former colonial hotel, the White Horse, was the place to go. For $60 US we could have a view of the lovely gardens surrounding the hotel, play a game of tennis, visit the spa or even enjoy a game of golf on their course that didn’t appear to be in high use at the time. The grass was green but there were no flags on greens or markers for tee-off spots. A colony of fruit bats hang out all day in tall pines at the edge of the golf course. You could hear their squeaks and smell them before you saw them. The bats are quite large and furry. They cluster together on the limbs of the trees, fifty or more per cluster. There were so many they are killing the trees. Once one tree has been denuded to the point the bats don’t like it they move to another tree. I can only hope the tree regenerates once the bats have decamped. Chepi Hotel, just down the hill from the bats, is another higher end spot to stay in Kabale. The rates are not extreme and there was a nice pool and sauna in the complex. The difference between it and White Horse was that Chepi was a new hotel, not the more atmospheric colonial style.

We returned to see the bats later in the afternoon with our camera and binoculars, hoping to see the bats fly off at sunset for their evening feed. After waiting a long time for the sun to set, we gave up and returned to town. Jon met us at Edirisa and pointed up in the sky where hundreds of bats were streaming out for the night. Oh, well, we got to see them up close.

We had intended to stay another night at Edirisa because we had not been able to get a room at Byoonga Amagara on Lake Bonyoni until Saturday night. Someone had reserved our double room at Edirisa, so we changed our plans and went to Lake Bunyoni a day early. There are no minibuses operating from town to the lake. Transport is by taxi. The 9 km road to Lake Bunyoni was just like the road from the border to Kabale, only much shorter. We had a hard time finding a vacant room at Lake Bunyoni in our price range. We ended up at Crater Lake Lodge. They have very nice cabins with thatched roofs but they were all full. All that was left were very simple rooms with outdoor facilities.

We stayed and enjoyed the gardens by the lake and their restaurant. I had a refreshing swim in the lake and we went for a walk. There was an impressive looking new hotel at the head of the lake. We went to have a look. Birdnest @ Bunyoni Resort is a work in progress. One floor of rooms is now open and some of the common rooms are available for use. We talked to the owners, a Belgian couple who have big plans for the future. We wish them well.

Saturday morning we were down at the dock shortly after 9 AM. Noah, age 17 was waiting to paddle us in his dugout canoe to Byoona Amagara, a backpacker resort on an island. We loaded our luggage in the bow, Ray took a seat on a pile of rushes in front of Noah and I was on a small wooden seat near the bow and we were off. It was a pleasant 50 minute trip out to the island. The sky was mostly blue and the water was calm. The lake, at 1900 m elevation, is the remains of a collapsed crater, surrounded by hills. At a maximum depth of 900 m it is the second deepest lake in Africa. The shoreline is an irregular series of peninsulas forming peaceful bays circling multiple hilly islands. Transportation is mainly by dugout canoes with just a few low power motor boats to transport heavier goods.

We reached Byoona Amagara and were shown to our room. We went all out this time and booked their best room, the deluxe dome room. All the dome rooms were spread far apart to preserve privacy. Ours had the added protection of a high bamboo fence. It was so private you could wander around naked if you wanted. The dome was constructed of split bamboo with a thatched roof. The bedroom, furnished with a double bed and a single bed, an easy chair and a love seat, was spacious. The front is open leading to a large balcony with a table and three chairs. The half of the balcony attached to the dome is roofed so rain doesn’t come into the bedroom. The balcony had an excellent view of the lake. The toilet and shower were outside down a set of stairs. All the toilets at Byoona Amagara are compost types, with a separate urinal for the guys next to the toilet. Our shower was in a separate structure across from the toilet with hot water, heated by solar power. There was a sign in the shower advising occupants to wait until late morning through late afternoon to have a shower when the water system has had a chance to warm up after the cool night. All power at the resort was solar, including lights and an internet system. It was very comfortable and friendly.

The rainy season seems to have started a little early. The first afternoon it poured rain for a half hour and continued to spit off and on. We decided it was a day for relaxing. I found the library and got a new book to read while we are here. Each book is numbered and labelled with an admonition to not take the book with you. “Stealing books is not cool,” the label said. I chose a smaller book that I figured I could finish in a day. Two Moons by Irish writer Jennifer Johnston turned out to be excellent. My biggest problem was reading after dark. The solar lights were dim in the common sitting room and in our bedroom. The staff brought candles to put on the tables after dark so that we could see our food and read.

Sunday morning we woke up to rain, starting slowly and building up to a real downpour. We just stayed in our warm bed until 9 AM, hoping the rain would stop. It didn’t. We finally put on our raincoats and went to the dining-living room for breakfast. A young man, Paul, who is in Uganda doing doctoral research on Gorillas in Bwindi National Park was there with his father, visiting from Britain. They had been camping and had to leave today. Their tent was spread out to dry and they were waiting for the rain to stop before taking a boat back to the mainland. They finally left after lunch.

Results came in from the Presidential elections. The incumbent, Museveni, won by a landslide.

The rain lasted all morning. It was another day to just read, play cards and chat. Finally about noon a motorboat arrived with two passengers, who looked only slightly wet. They said the rain was not as hard on the mainland. About 1 PM the rain stopped and the sun came out for the rest of the day.

As soon as the skies cleared we went for a walk following the paths to the end of the island. The island is like a pair of broken eye glasses, with two knobs joined by a narrow section, bent towards each other. We met up with a few local men and children on the path close to Byoona Amagara. The man and a teenage boy accompanied us on our walk and acted as our unofficial guides. We walked by a large, unfinished structure that they said was another hostel, abandoned about 5 years ago. A short distance further, half way up a hill was another small complex that the men told us was another hostel-campground. It looked as if no one was staying there.

A few small farmers’ cottages were scattered on the hillside. Farmers grow corn, sorghum, Irish potatoes and greens in their small plots of land. The land didn’t look very fertile and the people didn’t look prosperous. The boy walking with us said he had finished grade 7 last year but wasn’t going to high school. There was not enough money to send him. We stopped at one farm house where a man was building a new house next to his brother. He had constructed a double frame of saplings and was stuffing the frame with clay to form the outer walls. The house would eventually have two rooms and would be finished with a smooth coating of clay, left unpainted. There was no electricity or running water on this part of the island. Water was collected in yellow plastic pails from the lake. It was a subsistence existence.

The sky was still blue and the temperature had risen by the time we finished the walk. It was time for a swim. I rushed back to our room, changed and went to join a few other guests at the swimming dock. The water was refreshing, as it was off Crater Lake resort. In my opinion, the temperature was just right for those of us who like to swim a longer distance.

That evening we chatted to Mathieu, from Quebec, and his mother Lise. They have 6 weeks together before flying home to Canada. They spent four weeks in Ethiopia before flying to Uganda. We have had several reports from travellers of the emerging tourist market in Ethiopia. They said it was hard travelling but very different and interesting.

We returned to Kabale this morning, giving me time to write this blog and get ready for the rest of our travels. Stay tuned!

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