Malaysia and Thailand  Winter 2008-9

Island Hopping

Perhentian Islands

Malaysian Peninsula

Sunset on Coral Bay

Read previous Episode: Cameron Highlands

March 13 2009

Well, what would you do? We knew from the MRI done at the hospital in Georgetown and from conversations with the doctor that the cure for Ray's back was not going to be instantaneous. We could cut short our trip and return to Ottawa. The below zero temperatures and continuing snow and ice would probably mean Ray would be confined to the house a lot more than he would like. Or, we could sit on a warm sunny beach for the next two weeks, just relaxing and let nature go ahead with its healing powers. The choice was easy. The beach it was. Our one concession was to skip Singapore and fly a few days early to Paris where we would meet with a French Orthopaedic Specialist for another opinion on Ray's back problems. We would miss the Singapore Sling at Raffles but the beach was too inviting.

Off we went by minivan from the Cameron Highlands to Kuala Besut on the northeast coast of Malaysia. From there is was a 40 minute motorboat ride to the Perhentian Islands. The Perhentian Islands are just 20 km off the coast. Two islands have the majority of tourist accommodation, Pulau Perhentian Besar, meaning Big Island and Pulau Perhentian Kecil, the Small Island. The monsoons hit the Perhentians from November to February but we had been assured the big rains had finished. In addition it was the low season on the islands, meaning discount prices. Just our bag.

We chose Kecil with its sandy beaches and corals just offshore. We got off at Coral Bay a small 300 M stretch of beach on a sheltered bay. Coral Bay is a collection of simple bungalows and restaurants with one upscale resort in the process of opening at the north end of the beach. Even that resort is offering bargain rates but the bungalows sprawl over a hill overlooking the beach, and we prefer to be closer to the water. We found a simple wooden bungalow with attached toilet and shower right on the beach and here we have stayed.

Coral Bay Beach

Kercil Island Beach Cabin

The weather has dealt us some rain but there has been only one day so far when it didn't clear enough to tempt us into the warm waters. We have been swimming in the bay with our snorkels, admiring the corals and fish and sampling the food served in the small restaurants. The rest of the time we sit on our balcony, reading our books and watching the world go by.

Something must be right with the atmosphere of the island because within a day or two Ray has been walking more upright, the pain has almost gone and he is able to walk the length of the beach and back without taking a rest. We even took a 15 minute walk up and over a small hill to Long Beach on the opposite side of Kecil. Long Beach is about 1 km of sand with small rollers breaking onto the shore. The waves are big enough to tempt surfers and boogie board riders but not strong enough to prevent swimming.

Kercil Long Beach

Snorkel Trip: Diving from Lighthouse

My big activity so far has been a day long snorkel trip, stopping at various points off both Kecil and Besar Islands to swim over lazy black-tipped sharks, chase turtles and search out unusual corals and fish. We stopped at the one permanent community on either island, a Fishermen village on the south coast of Kecil. We had lunch at a beach side restaurant owned by more of the family that runs our hotel, Maya Resort, and the snorkel operation. After lunch we stopped at a marine light marker off Coral Bay where all the men in our group took turns jumping and diving off the 5 M high upper deck while the rest of us admired the corals on two underground hills nearby.

Feeding the fish on snorkel trip

Corals

What did we do the rest of the visit? Well, more of the same, sun and surf with a repeat snorkel trip for Jeanne. Ray was improved enough to take longer walks every day so we got to explore a few more beaches. Things are definitely looking up. On March 14 we fly from Kota Bharu, the closet airport to the Perhentians, to Singapore via Kuala Lumpur. From Singapore it will be Lufthansa overnight to Paris (via Frankfurt). We look forward to seeing Erica and her family but will miss our beach time!

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