Myanmar (Burma)

Episode 3 Biking The Lake

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Read previous Cruising Inle Lake or next March of the Monks

7 January 2010 Nyaungshwe Myanmar

We hauled ourselves and our bicycles out of the long-tail boat that had just ferried the four of us, our Belgian friends Edgard and Jeannine, Ray and me, from the East side to the west side of Inle Lake, docking at the village of Kaung Daing. The dock, next to a small monastery, was crowded with townspeople who seemed very excited at our arrival. Had someone told them we were coming? No, they were waiting for four long-tail boats docking right behind us.

The boats were bedecked with flowers and women were singing and dancing as they came to the dock. Out of one boat stepped a few young men with big drums and braces of cymbals. They all started to play and sing as the next boat unloaded golden icons and the last its young passengers dressed in elaborate traditional costumes. Two of them, young boys, were hoisted unto the shoulders of strong young men and the whole group proceeded with great merriment to dance and sing. This was a celebration before the two young boys entered the monastery to be ordained as monks. Each boy is required to spend some time in a monastery between the ages of 10 and 20 and this was the time for these two young boys who looked no older than 11 or 12. We watched for quite a while before continuing on our bicycle ride.

We were doing a small circle route on the lake. We started down the east die of the lake, bicycling between fields of sugar cane. It was the cultivation season and workers were busy in the fields cutting cane and gathering the canes into bundles to be taken to the sugar mills we passed along the way. Ox cart was the most common form of transportation for the cane although there were a few tractors hauling a box and sometimes bigger trucks. We passed a few monasteries where monks were hanging out their laundry of red robes and relaxing until the next prayer time.

We took a side road leading to the ultra-luxe Inle Princess Resort. They were not many guests so we were offered a tour of the resort. If I come into an inheritance I was not expecting or win a lottery, I would book into this resort for several days. There are several more resorts on the shore of the lake but this is the cream of the crop. Large teak bungalows surround a small water lily lake or face Inle Lake. The least expensive bungalows are on stilts over a canal and have balconies with a mountain view. The interior of the bungalows are beautifully furnished. Every request of the guests has been anticipated from a Bird Book and binoculars to seating areas for writing, having a snack or sunning on the balcony. There is even a large bathroom with both a tub and an outdoor shower. You can have a drink in the bar, breakfast in a pavilion on the shore of the lake and watch a show after dinner in the dinning room. Save up for that extra special occasion and come here!

We continued on to the village of Maing Thauk, half of which is on the mainland and half is filled with stilt houses over the water. The two halves are joined by a 450 yd wooden bridge where we bartered with a boatman to take us across the lake.

After leaving the monastery festival on the other side we bicycled a short distance to Hu-Pin Hot Springs Resort for lunch. After lunch we investigated the hot springs pools. There are two segregated pools available for both locals and foreigners and a separate Foreigner Only area with three smaller pools of increasingly hot waters. I was the only one interested in a soak but the others agreed to wait while I relaxed in the mineral waters. I had not brought a bathing suit but for my admittance fee I was given a towel, soap, shampoo and a longyi. The attendant taught me how to tie the longyi and I sank into the first pool. It was not much hotter than a bath but was very relaxing. My biggest problem was keeping the longyi tied when I went into the pool. It had the annoying habit of filling with air like a balloon and collapsing with a loud, rude noise with enough energy to pop my longyi. It didn’t entirely fall off and I eventually learned how to keep it tied. I tried the waters in the other two pools and found them not much warmer than the first, which wasn’t a problem with me. There were about ten other foreigners in the pool area, mostly sunning on the long deck chairs. I made two circuits of the pools, had a shower and joined the others.

We all headed north along the road, past more cane fields and trucks and carts full of the cane. Jeannine started to have problems with her bike. The nut holding the left hand pedal in place was gone and the pedal was loose enough to come off. Ray got a rock and banged it back in place but it continued to loosen. Finally we stopped beside a roadside stand near a large sugar mill operation. Some local men tried to fix the pedal without success. Finally one man took the bike back to factory and returned with the pedal bolted in place. Jeannine gave him a small amount of money for his help and we were on our way again.

The only problem was that we discovered from our helpers that we had gone past the turn off to Nyaungshwe. We were about 2 or 3 km past the turn off! We were almost there when Jeannine discovered she had also lost the nut holding the front fender and wheel in place. We could only hope it held until we got back to town. It did. We pedaled the last 6 km on a very rough dirt road, running between two canals and shaded by trees. We all could have used a soak in a hot tub after our ride but we celebrated instead in a local bar with 600K ($0.60) mugs of Myanmar beer.

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