South America 2002-3

Continued from Page 1

San Francisco Plaza Quito

We flew from the Galapagos to Quito, so we had to get used to higher altitude again. I started sipping coca tea, using the coca leaves I bought in La Paz. This concoction is reputed to help acclimatise you to the altitude, but you cannot buy it in Ecuador. I guess it is too close to troublesome Columbia. We only stayed a day and a half in Quito, but we enjoyed walking around the Old City, admiring the Spanish architecture.

Otavalo, north of Quito, has a great Saturday market, specializing in handicrafts. We could not wait around until Saturday, but we decided to go and visit anyway. It is only a scenic two hour bus ride from Quito, so we were there in time for lunch. The vendors were in full force in one of the town squares and were very pleased to see us, as business was slow. Ray was quite patient as I toured every single booth before making my purchases. We had been putting off buying souvenirs as we didn´t want the extra weight in our bags, but we could not put it off forever. I made a good dent in our gift and souvenir list. Now we are waiting to see what Cusco, our last destination, has to offer.

We did a little people watching in Otavalo as well. Quito people wear contemporary clothing, but most of the women in Otavalo, and some of the men, wear a colourful traditional outfit. The women wear multiple strands of gold bead necklaces and an embroidered white blouse with puffy sleeves. Their skirt is a black sarong overskirt open at one side to show a white underskirt and on their feet they wear a cloth sandal. Both men and women had their long black hair in a single braid down their back and nearly everyone wore a black or green fedora. Most of the men wore contemporary clothing, but some of the older men had on white pedal pushers and a striped poncho for warmth.

Rather than stay longer in Otavalo, we left the next day to travel back to Quito where we transferred to another bus bound for Latacunga, another two hours south. The whole trip was through the mountains of Ecuador, past several volcanoes. We missed seeing one of the highest, Cotopaxi, because clouds were obscuring the top, but it was a pleasant route.

We went to Latacunga to make two side trips, one to visit the local Thursday market in nearby Saquisili, and the other to visit Lago Quilotoa, a volcanic crater lake. Our original plan had been to take local buses to these destinations. That would have meant a day trip to Saquisili and possibly an overnight trip to Lago Quilotoa. Instead, we made inquiries in town and ended up getting a guide to take us to both places in the same day.

Latacunga Cathedral

Llamas for sale at Saquisili Market

It was a long but rewarding day. Our guide, Ramiro, picked us up in his 4WD vehicle at 7:30 AM on Thursday and off we went to Saquisili. We could tell we were getting close as the road was crowded with farm trucks and other vehicles. This is not a tourist market. Every Thursday people from farms and small villages in the surrounding mountains come to Saquisili to trade animals and goods. The small town is given over to many different markets. We visited three main areas. The first one was the animal market. I am sure that Ray's father would have felt right at home, except there was not an auction. Instead, the farmers unload their livestock from the back of their truck and tether them to a spot on the ground. Then prospective buyers wander about comparing the animals and finally making their purchases. There were lots of Holstein cows, sheep and pigs for sale, as well as some Llamas, goats, donkeys and mules.

From the animal market, Ramiro took us to another area where fruit, vegetables, fish and meat were sold. There were a few booths offering rugs and other tourist souvenirs, but that was not the main purpose. The locals far outnumbered the few tourists there. My only disappointment was that unlike Otavalo, there were very few people in traditional dress, except for the fedora. Everyone seems to have embraced the more contemporary look.

The third market area we visited had more fruits and vegetables, but it also had a section offering live poultry, rabbits and even guinea pigs. We have yet to sample the Ecuadorian delicacy of cuy (guinea pig). One thing that puts us off is the presentation. It is usually served whole with the head and little paws still on.

After we had had our fill of the markets, Ramiro drove us through the hills to Lago Quilotoa. The route was spectacular, winding past ever changing vegetation until we reached the altiplano at 4000 M. We passed reforested areas of eucalyptus and pines, green cultivated fields, sheep pastures and finally grasslands, the home of the llama. A bit further we stopped to look down into deep sandstone canyons, formed by rivers, which were dry at this time of year. In one of the highest areas the local people build their homes from the long grasses that grow in tufts over the hills. We stopped to look inside one of the straw huts that was empty at this time. An open doorway opened into one small windowless room with a dirt floor. Ramiro assured us it was very snug and comfortable but I like a little more comfort.

Lago Quilota grass hut

We stopped again to visit a workshop in the village of Tiloa. The people of this village specialize in painting colourful scenes of village life and legends on wood and sheep skin. We have seen this artwork for sale elsewhere in Ecuador and it is often very well done.

We finally reached the village of Lago Quilotoa close to noon, parked the car and walked over to the lookout to see the lake. You look down from the rim of the volcano at 3850 M to see a green jewel of an alkaline lake 300 M below. It is possible to walk on the rim all around the lake, but that would take up to ten hours and judging from where we were standing looking down, would be a windy hike. We were not going to attempt that. Instead we wanted to walk down to the lake. There is a popular option to ride a mule for the return trip up the hill, but we were not going to take the easy route. We figured we needed the practise for our future Inca Trail walk, so we walked down and up. Ramiro wisely waited for us at the top. He has done this before.

Lago Quilota volcano from rim of volcano

Quilota herd of sheep on trail

The path started in a cleft in the soft sandstone sides of the volcano. It was well marked and not very difficult. One long section was fun to go down. The sandstone had crumbled into a sand dune that you could dig your heels into and bounce down. Near the lakeshore we passed flocks of sheep being herded by locals. A few llamas and cows were also grazing on the sparse vegetation of the hillside. We reached the shore in just over a half hour and dabbled our hands in the water to discover it wasn't very cold. We had passed two Dutch girls riding up on mules and learned later that they had gone swimming in the lake, but we had not thought to bring our suits.

We were hungry for some lunch so after looking around and taking pictures, we started the uphill climb. That is when we realized we were at 3500 M and the path was steep. That sand dune that was such fun to run down was murder going up. Your feet sink in and slip back with each step. We had lots of rest stops along the way to have a drink of water and catch our breaths. I started thinking wistfully about those mules, although I do not like riding. We persevered though and made it to the top in under an hour. Ramiro was impressed. He said most people take 1 1/2 to 2 hours for the return trip, so I guess we were not as bad as we thought.

We were glad to tuck into the food Ramiro had brought for us. Refreshed, we headed home, awing again at the mountain scenery as we bounced along the rough road back to town.

From Latacunga we went just a little farther south to Baños. It is a pretty little town in a narrow valley in the middle of the Andes. Since it is only 1800 M high, the steep hills are lush and green. Baños is known for its thermal baths, but we haven't taken advantage of them yet. Instead, we have been biking and hiking.

The first day we rented mountain bikes to follow the Route of the Waterfalls. It was supposed to be 60 Km "mostly downhill" from Baños to Puyo, due east. We started out straight downhill, as advertised on a nice paved road beside a river through a narrow canyon. Just the kind of riding I like. We stopped to admire the many waterfalls which shot down off the steep mountain sides to the river below.

Waterfall on bicycle ride to Puyo

At about the 8 Km mark we had to go through a short tunnel. Thank goodness there was no traffic and we could see light from the exit, because there was no other lighting. Another tunnel loomed before us but it had a notice saying "no bicycles". There was a bike detour on the old road next to the river. It was great. By this time we were at least 100 M above the river and we had a great view, plus we didn't have to worry about that tunnel. The downside was that the paved road ended after the tunnel. It was a rough ride for the next 20 Km but that is why we had mountain bikes. We had a few uphills that let us realize that this ride was not a piece of cake. We were glad to take a break at the 20 Km mark. There was a big sign pointing to a path down towards the river, promising a waterfall viewpoint. The 1 Km walk down was steep but easy and the waterfall was spectacular. However, steep down means steep uphill so we paid for the easy descent.

Back on the bikes we passed the last of the waterfalls. The valley from then on gradually got a bit broader and Halleluia, we got a paved road again for the last half. We also got an unscheduled break to sit out a downpour. I think this is a regular occurrence in the mountains. It looked like it was clearing so we pushed on. We passed one young couple on one of the unadvertised uphills where the girl had to get off and walk up the hill. I think they turned back before finishing as we never saw them again.

The second half of the route is known for the wild orchids growing beside the road and for a large tea plantation that we stopped to admire. The vegetation was pure tropical, different from the barren mountains of the higher altitudes.

We made it all the way to Puyo, right to the bus terminal. We were able to put our bikes on top of a bus and travel in relative luxury back to Baños. It was fun seeing the road over again, although both of us thought it was scarier in the bus. you don't realize how narrow the road is when you are on a bike. There were sections that were only wide enough for one vehicle. We even had to back up once to let a bus travelling the opposite direction pass us. We arrived back in Baños tired but very pleased with our day.

Today we put on our daypacks, bought a sandwich and set out up a trail on the south side of town. They don't believe in easy switchbacks around here. Straight up is shorter but harder. Our first goal was a Mirador (look out), complete with lit up cross, about 300 M above town. We found out you can take a taxi ride all the way up if you don't like walking, but of course we walked. It was a good view, both east and west out of the valley, but the highest peaks were still covered in clouds. We wanted to see the Volcan Tongurahua. That meant we would walk farther up the mountain side. We walked part way on a cobblestoned road that led into a beautiful little resort, Luna Runtun. A local stopped us and asked where we were headed. He advised us to follow a path through the woods that would lead to a great Mirador of the Volcano. We took his advice and chugged up more steep paths until more than an hour later we found ourselves on a ridge with almost a 360 view of the mountains and valleys. Just the spot for lunch.

No worry: machete at tea is not serious

The local man had said that Tungurahua clears every afternoon between 2 and 5 but when we were at the top it was still cloud covered. We started down again on an even steeper path through the woods, that did come out on the local road. A little further down the road we were stopped by another local who introduced himself and asked if we would come to his house for tea. He said we would have a good view of Tungurahua from his cottage, just beside the road. That sounded like a good idea so we agreed to his suggestion. He set up a bench and a small table for us in the pasture beside his tiny cottage and made us a herbal tea with lemon and fresh buns. The clouds did part enough for us to see the top of the volcano, just as he had promised. We paid him a dollar, which was welcomed, said our good byes and continued down the hill back to town.

We are not quite ready to leave Baños yet. There are more trails to follow and it is a nice relaxing place to spend some time. We are planning a few more stops in Ecuador before making our way to Cusco in Peru at the beginning of March. Who knows what adventures we can come up with next.

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