Halong Bay

People's monument at Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi

The last you heard from me we were still in Hanoi, about to take another excursion out of town. We took a tour bus, arranged by one of the many traveller's cafes, to the Perfume Pagoda, so named because it is an area of trees & flowers, hence perfumed. We drove for 3 hrs to the small town of My Duc where a flotilla of small iron dugout canoes, newer versions of the wooden boats we saw elsewhere, were waiting with women to row us down a shallow stream filled with water plants and flanked with karst hills, similar to those we saw in Vang Vieng. Karst hills are the after effect of the collision of continents that formed the Himilayas. What is left are the tips of limestone mountains on a sinking plateau, and so they are full of hidden caves. The area is full of temples, built to commemorate a hero and pagodas, places of worship.

The trip was very peaceful, sitting admiring the scenery and watching the people harvesting water plants for animal feed, scooping snails in baskets and preparing watery fields for planting. We stopped after a short distance to see a temple and who should join us there but a covey of young girls carrying plastic containers of cold drinks to sell to us at inflated prices. Unfortunately, one of my nicknames for Vietnam is the country of hard sell. One 'no thank you' is not enough. They keep hoping to make the sale of a lifetime. Sigh.

Anyway, we escaped back to the boats and travelled another 1 1/2 hrs to the foot of a mountain. We disembarked and climbed for 1 hr up steep stairs conveniently built all the way to the main pagoda located inside a huge cave. I was amazed that everyone made it, even the Japanese man who consumed several cans of beer on his boat journey and chain smoked. The drink girls made it up, and down too. Back we went down the river and 5 minutes before the end our rower starting reminding Ray he was supposed to give a tip. We landed and gave her what we thought was appropriate, but she was not impressed. She was still berating us as we escaped to the bus. Slightly soured the peaceful mood of the day.

The next morning, Wednesday 30 Dec, found us on another early morning tour bus, this time bound for a 3 day trip to Halong Bay & Cat Ba island. It was a 4 1/2 hr journey in the bus with a brief stop at a restaurant & disabled person's workshop. They sew silk garments and do beautiful emboidery on tablecloths. They also do intricate embroidered pictures on silk, if you like that kind of art work.

At Halong Bay we had lunch then boarded a tour boat for the 4 hr trip to Cat Ba Island. Halong Bay is on the South China sea and is filled with about 3000 karst islands of all sizes, Cat Ba, being the largest. The day was hazy so the visibility was limited, but it was still an impressive sight. About 1 hr out we stopped to visit the Cave of Marvels, Hang Dau Go. This is 3 huges caverns that have been recently decked out with coloured lights and safe stairs for tourists. The Vietnamese Army used these caves in the 1970s as part of the defense of Hanoi.

We reached Cat Ba harbour just as an armada of fishing boats were leaving for the evening. The harbour was full of boats of all kinds, many of which are permanent homes for their owners. Our hotel was one of many that line the harbour front. Cat Ba seems to be trying somewhat successfully, to affect a mediteranian air with a long boardwalk a new entrance gate and fountains. We rather liked it.

That evening everyone was in a holiday mood in anticipation of New Year's Eve. We joined a goup in an open air bar on the harbourfront & toasted ourselves as it was Ray & my 34th wedding anniversary. All these young kids were impressed that: 1) we were still together, and 2) we were travelling the same way they were.

The next day we were promised a long hike in the National Park to have lunch in the small village of Viet Hai. Over 30 people piled into a bus to the park entrance, first stopping at the Trung Trang cave along the way. The Italian family we had met in Sapa were also with us on Cat Ba and asked us if we would take their son, Aluna (almost 6), with us while they waited outside with Tessa (almost 3). This turned out to be quite an adventure. The huge cave has a bunker built inside it that served as a secret hospital during the Vietnamese war. The group was quite large and the way was lit only by one man at the front of the group and another man at the tail end of the group, each holding a small light on the end of a pole. A few people had small flashlights, but it was dark. Aluna even let me hold his hand as we climbed stairs and ramps up several different levels to the top of the bunker. There we saw a secret tunnel leading to the top of the hill where there were cannons to defend the structure. When we made it back to starting point Aluna was full of excitement & Tessa's nose was definitely out of joint since she missed out.

We continued to the park entrance where some people opted for a short hike, while the majority, about 29 of us, followed our guides into the jungle and up the hills. It was a challenging hike as we climbed up steep rocky paths that led over 4 hills. Part way along our guide realized that part of the group had gotten ahead of him. He was rightfully worried as there were several spots where trails intersected and it would be easy to take the wrong turn. The guide left us in the care of his assistants while he tried to locate the splinter group. It wasn' t until we were out of the jungle and at the edge of the village that we got word that the group had passed that way and were not lost. So we all made it, after 4 1/2 hours, we reached the village and our lunch. Aluna walked the whole way himself, but much to Tessa's displeasure, she rode on her father Piero's back most of the way. He must have been tired.

From the village it was an easy 1 hour walk to a small harbour where we met our boat ride back to Cat Ba harbour. The bay was too shallow for the boat to come in so we were ferried out 8 at a time in the small local fishing boats used in that area. The are made of woven bamboo coated with tar to make them watertight and are rowed by a person, usually a woman, standing up. They seemed a little tippy & rickety, but we made it to the waiting boat. We started out only to go aground twice. There was much loud shouting by the crew and running around pushing off with a long bamboo pole before we made it to the deeper waters. It was a pretty ride back through the small islands surrounding Cat Ba and we arrived after dark to see all the boats in the harbour lit up and the crew cooking their dinner on little stoves on board. I must say it was a little disconcerting to watch a crewman guide the boat in using a small flashlight, but we didn't run into one other boat and didn't crash into the harbour wall.

After our supper at the hotel, we went looking for the best New Year's celebration. The locals were all at a local bar listening to a band play to recorded music. What strikes me as different between this crowd and one at home is that nobody dances & they all just listen politely. I guess dancing is not politically correct. We ended up joining a group from several tour groups, some Aussies, our Italian friends, some Americans, some from France and an English girl. Everyone was in high spirits and some prepared for the occasion by buying bottles of local 'champagne' . We opened one bottle for a taste. It was horrible. Shortly before midnight 2 girls, Tamara & Kate, shook their bottles to ensure a large cork explosion. Then, while still holding the champagne bottle, Tamara offered me a drink of some decent red wine. All of a sudden the bottle exploded, right into my hand & belly, showering me with champagne. A second later Kate's bottle exploded & we all burst into laughter.

The countdown to midnight was made using the town clock. We went to bed shortly after but some of the others partied on. I am told several went swimming in one of the fountains in town and one person climber to the top. Seems to me I saw pictures like that from a Vermont bicycle trip.

The next day was the return trip to Hanoi. We were just pulling out from Cat Ba, when one of the French fellows realised 2 of his friends were not on board. Oops. Back we went & retrieved the lost soles. Seems they were relaxing & waiting to be called. At our lunch stop that day, Ray & I made another count down & Happy New Year toast in honour of all you back home celebrating at that time.

Back in Hanoi that evening we walked over to Hoan Kiem lake, right near our hotel, where an open air concert was taking place. More of New Year's celebrations. They had a band & a girl singer performing more of the ballads the Vietnamese are fond of. They were very good and very clean cut. The band had a type of uniform on, so I don't know if they were connected to the military. Once again I expected loud clapping, cheers and lots of people dancing, but they were a very well behaved crowd.

Temple of Literature

Lotus ponds

Sunday we visited the Temple of Literature in Hanoi, started in 1070 to honour Confucius and those people who passed doctorates in examinations held every 3 years. It was a nice peaceful park setting with lotus ponds, sculptures and clipped bushes. In the afternoon we sat beside lake Hoan Kiem, killing time until our overnight train ride to Hue. Once again the Hanoi postcard boys threatened to get the better of us by not leaving us alone. We left but one of these days the tourists are going to rise up, shouting 'enough'.