Mexico Revisited: 2013-2014

Puebla Elevation 2200M

 Jan 22-25 2014 

2200M means that it feels cold at night in Puebla in January, especially if you have just come from the coast, as we had. The bus ride from Veracruz had passed an active volcano complete with snowy peak. We hadn’t realized that foretold the weather in Puebla. It did warm up nicely during the day but at night we snuggled together and were glad of the two blankets that Hostal Santo Domingo provided. Breakfast was served in the courtyard of this old Spanish building with open doors to the street. We wore two fleeces in the morning and made good use of the cushions on each metal chair and the blankets thoughtfully draped over the back of each chair.

 By about 11AM the sun had warmed the streets of Puebla when we were ready to take advantage of the many treats this UNESCO designated town had to offer. When we visited Puebla in 2006 we were impressed by the colonial buildings in the Historic center of town and we impressed all over again. Puebla is known for its ceramics, especially ceramic tiles, used liberally on the facades of buildings; some tiles used merely as decoration, some used to form pictures of historical figures. The interiors of many churches were a cornucopia of Renaissance and Mexican Baroque style. There was something to please everyone.

Mercado Victoria, which spread across several blocks, was impressive with tall stained glass and iron entrances. Once the main market, it is now a food court and shopping mall.

I come from a family of librarians and the latest in the line is our daughter, Erica, who became fascinated with the architecture of libraries when she was involved with rebuilding the Ste Anne de Bellvue campus library of McGill University. She would have loved the 17^th C, Biblioteca Palafoxiana, built by Bishop Juan de Palafox y Mendoza, Bishop of Puebla from 1640-1655. Bishop Palafox was so revered by the population he was nominated for beatification. Centuries went by until Pope Benedict XVI finally agreed with the nomination. There are now two large stainless steel monuments on a plaza adjoining the Cathedral honouring the 2011 designation.

Museo Amparo, housed in two colonial buildings, has undergone extensive renovation since we last visited in 2006. The exhibits, both new and old were worth a second visit. A new photographic exhibit dedicated to Kati Horna, who was born in Budapest in 1912, lived in Berlin, Paris, Spain. In 1940 she escaped the wars in Europe and made Mexico City her home until her death in 2000. Her work as a war photographer and interpreter of daily life has gaining her recognition as an important early photographer. That wasn’t the only exhibit. There was a large and interesting exhibit of silver and design from 1880-2012, art from the Cathedral, not usually displayed and their permanent collection of Pre-hispanic art and 19^th art and furniture.

 When we were overloaded with information, we made our way to the new roof top restaurant and garden. It was the perfect location to see the colourful tiled domes of the city’s many churches.

Another unexpected treat was an exhibit of Marionettes from the Czech Republic in the Casa de la Cultura. Popular in the late 19^th-20thC, the marionettes, complete with exquisitely painted scenery, depicted folk tales, such as Hansel and Gretel, scary scenes from the underworld, or scenes from peasant life. We were enchanted.

Puebla is known for its food and it didn’t disappoint. We had two especially memorable lunches. The first was a simple, but delicious chicken mole in an inexpensive, no frills restaurant, Caldos Angelita. The second was in the courtyard of a beautiful 200 year-old house filled with antiques. Mesón Sacrista de la Compañia served the best meal we had eaten so far in Mexico.

Our memories of Puebla were of musical performances in the main square and in the Casa de la Cultura. This time we attended an evening Guitar concert by a very accomplished classical musician Raúl Gasca Toache in a museum. We enjoyed it so much we bought his CD.