Malaysian Peninsula |
Langkawi Island |
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Feb 24 2009
More fun in the sun! We have spent the last six days just enjoying Cenang Beach,
the prime tourist destination on Langkawi Island. There is more than 1 km of
white sand and warm waters to enjoy, although there are no offshore corals.
Restaurants with menus to suit every taste and budget line the main street. It
is the perfect place to just lay back and let Ray recuperate some more.
The biggest event in our time on Langkawi has been changing bungalows. The first
night was in a good sized room but not right on the beach and a bit above our
budget. From there we moved to the other extreme, cheap, cramped and dingy. It
did have the advantage of being on the beach but I felt our budget could afford
and deserved an upgrade. I walked the resort strip seeking the perfect place and
finally decided on a bungalow in Malibest resort. It cost 120 RM per night
(about $40 CAD). When I say that is more than we have paid so far you have an
idea of our frugal budget! It was the best value accommodation so far, a large
wooden bungalow with a nice shaded balcony within steps of the white sand beach.
We will be sorry to leave today.
The only other event of note was my
sandal falling apart. I love my Source sandals but they seem to have a fatal
flaw. This is the second pair where a strap has come detached from the sole.
When it happened the first time I returned to Mountain Equipment Coop and bought
another pair. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that Source gave a lifetime
guarantee that was matched by MEC. I got the original price of the sandals
refunded, even though the price had dropped in the meantime. I expect the same
treatment this time but that means I will have to carry the old sandals in my
luggage for the rest of our trip. I don't need the extra volume or weight but it
will be worth the effort. In the meantime I bought an inexpensive pair of
sandals to last me the rest of the trip.
There was a direct boat from Langkawi Island to Georgetown, the capital city on
Penang Island. A city visit sounded like a nice change from all that sun and
surf. We arrived Saturday evening 21 February and checked into the comfortable
Hotel Malaysia. I am not sure if we will continue with these better hotels but
it is nice for the time being. We even get a good buffet breakfast as part of
the deal.
Georgetown has something in common with the Rideau Canal in
Ottawa, Canada. Both were accorded UNESCO World Heritage status in July 2008.
The British Captain Francis Light struck a deal with the Sultan of Kedah in 1786
to cede Penang to the British in return for an annual payment of £1,500 and
protection from the marauding Siamese and Burmese. Fort Cornwallis was built and
Georgetown was established as a port and trading post for the British East India
Company. A melange of immigrants from many different cultures flocked to Penang
and left their mark on the city of Georgetown. Today the population is 70%
ethnic Chinese, 10% East Indian and 20% Malay with intermarriage between the
groups providing their own mixture.
A trishaw is the atmospheric way to
get around Georgetown. The pedicab drivers wait outside the hotel waiting to
take tourists for a pleasant ride through the colonial downtown area. Our driver
was very knowledgeable and earned his money. He pointed out buildings of
interest along the way and suggested a few stops. We stopped twice, the first to
visit the ornate Khoo Khongsi in Chinatown. A khongsi is a clan house built to
further the fortunes of a Chinese clan or family. The more elaborate the better,
they are built in the form of a temple to suit the practice of ancestor worship.
Khoo Khongsi is one of the most elaborate with lots of red and gold paint and
carved stone figures and walls covered with murals depicting the history and
aspirations of the clan.
Koo Temple |
Chinese Fishing Village |
Eastern and Oriental Hotel |
We celebrated the end of our visit with the Orthopaedic doctor with a sumptuous buffet lunch at the famous Eastern and Oriental Hotel, founded by the Sarkies brothers, who also built Raffles in Singapore. We ate on the terrace overlooking the water, sampling more dishes than we have during our entire trip. I know several of our friends who would enjoy a stay at this luxury hotel, complete with white-gloved doormen and every amenity you could think of.
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