Malaysia and Thailand Winter 2008-9

Island Hopping

Langkawi and Georgetown, Malaysia


 Malaysian Peninsula

Langkawi Island

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Feb 24 2009

More fun in the sun! We have spent the last six days just enjoying Cenang Beach, the prime tourist destination on Langkawi Island. There is more than 1 km of white sand and warm waters to enjoy, although there are no offshore corals. Restaurants with menus to suit every taste and budget line the main street. It is the perfect place to just lay back and let Ray recuperate some more.

The biggest event in our time on Langkawi has been changing bungalows. The first night was in a good sized room but not right on the beach and a bit above our budget. From there we moved to the other extreme, cheap, cramped and dingy. It did have the advantage of being on the beach but I felt our budget could afford and deserved an upgrade. I walked the resort strip seeking the perfect place and finally decided on a bungalow in Malibest resort. It cost 120 RM per night (about $40 CAD). When I say that is more than we have paid so far you have an idea of our frugal budget! It was the best value accommodation so far, a large wooden bungalow with a nice shaded balcony within steps of the white sand beach. We will be sorry to leave today.

The only other event of note was my sandal falling apart. I love my Source sandals but they seem to have a fatal flaw. This is the second pair where a strap has come detached from the sole. When it happened the first time I returned to Mountain Equipment Coop and bought another pair. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that Source gave a lifetime guarantee that was matched by MEC. I got the original price of the sandals refunded, even though the price had dropped in the meantime. I expect the same treatment this time but that means I will have to carry the old sandals in my luggage for the rest of our trip. I don't need the extra volume or weight but it will be worth the effort. In the meantime I bought an inexpensive pair of sandals to last me the rest of the trip.

There was a direct boat from Langkawi Island to Georgetown, the capital city on Penang Island. A city visit sounded like a nice change from all that sun and surf. We arrived Saturday evening 21 February and checked into the comfortable Hotel Malaysia. I am not sure if we will continue with these better hotels but it is nice for the time being. We even get a good buffet breakfast as part of the deal.

Georgetown has something in common with the Rideau Canal in Ottawa, Canada. Both were accorded UNESCO World Heritage status in July 2008. The British Captain Francis Light struck a deal with the Sultan of Kedah in 1786 to cede Penang to the British in return for an annual payment of £1,500 and protection from the marauding Siamese and Burmese. Fort Cornwallis was built and Georgetown was established as a port and trading post for the British East India Company. A melange of immigrants from many different cultures flocked to Penang and left their mark on the city of Georgetown. Today the population is 70% ethnic Chinese, 10% East Indian and 20% Malay with intermarriage between the groups providing their own mixture.

A trishaw is the atmospheric way to get around Georgetown. The pedicab drivers wait outside the hotel waiting to take tourists for a pleasant ride through the colonial downtown area. Our driver was very knowledgeable and earned his money. He pointed out buildings of interest along the way and suggested a few stops. We stopped twice, the first to visit the ornate Khoo Khongsi in Chinatown. A khongsi is a clan house built to further the fortunes of a Chinese clan or family. The more elaborate the better, they are built in the form of a temple to suit the practice of ancestor worship. Khoo Khongsi is one of the most elaborate with lots of red and gold paint and carved stone figures and walls covered with murals depicting the history and aspirations of the clan.


Koo Temple

Chinese Fishing Village


Our second stop was the still active Chinese fishing village with houses built on a pier above the waters of Georgetown harbour. Each home had a small shrine attached to the wall next to the front door. We watched a man place lighted incense sticks in both the shrine on the outside of his home and the larger shrine inside the home while reciting his prayers.

It was our good fortune to be in Georgetown on the last Sunday of the month. On this day the pedestrian mall across the street from our hotel is turned into a craft market with live entertainment provided by very good local groups. It was a great way to spend the afternoon.

Georgetown has several excellent hospitals. We went to the Loh Guan Ley Specialist Hospital to have Ray's back assessed by an Orthopaedic doctor. We were very impressed by the availability of their services. Ray was able to be examined, get an MRI and be given the results and opinion within one day. Ray has bulging discs in his lower back causing pinched nerves. He will need further treatment when we return to Ottawa but for now we will be able to proceed with our trip, albeit a bit more sedately.

Georgetown is famous for the variety and excellence of its food, a legacy of the many cultures in the city. We had good meals everywhere. The small collection of hawker stalls across from out hotel served up a variety of inexpensive tasty treats. Big Chinese restaurants are full every night of families sharing dinner. We tried several dishes that were new to us and were well rewarded.


Eastern and Oriental Hotel 

We celebrated the end of our visit with the Orthopaedic doctor with a sumptuous buffet lunch at the famous Eastern and Oriental Hotel, founded by the Sarkies brothers, who also built Raffles in Singapore. We ate on the terrace overlooking the water, sampling more dishes than we have during our entire trip. I know several of our friends who would enjoy a stay at this luxury hotel, complete with white-gloved doormen and every amenity you could think of.

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